Summer came early in the Northwest this year, and it looks like it is here to stay. Rick and I left the car in warm temperatures and under a perfectly blue sky. After crossing the Cascade River on a massive log jam 300 feet away from the parking area, we met back up with the climbers' trail and started the first 1500 vertical feet of elevation gain in the forest. Read full story.

Summer is the perfect season to learn alpine and glacier climbing, and Washington's North Cascades offer the largest variety of accessible, low elevation glaciated terrain in the contiguous United States. Join one of our instructional programs or guided climbs in the North Cascades to learn climbing techniques for rock and ice, safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue procedures, and mountaineering leadership, and to climb to the summits of major peaks:

• 6-Day Alpinism 1 - Intro
• 6-Day Alpine Ice Climbing
• 3-Day Mt. Baker Climb
• 6-Day Expedition Training - Denali Prep

Also, if you are interested in learning to lead climbs on rock, glacier, and ice, check out our 3-part Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series. Each part is 12 days long, and you can take one, two, or three parts in the same season or spread them out over a few years. This course has been described by Men's Journal as "this country's most respected and thorough rock and mountaineering course," and many people who have an interest in eventually becoming a mountain guide enroll in this series to gain a solid foundation on which to build.

High Sierra: Mt. Whitney and beyond
Intrigued by the praises lavished upon the High Sierra by wilderness icons like John Muir and Ansel Adams and ready to see what the fuss is all about? Sign up to climb a timeless classic like Mt. Whitney, or enroll in a five-day Sierra Intro to Mountaineering or 9-day Sierra Mountaineering and Technical Leadership course to learn the essential skills for alpine climbing in this environment.

Climb abroad this summer!
AAI's climbing programs in both Bolivia and Peru provide world-class expeditions to major high elevation peaks in addition to rich cultural experiences. Though the physical challenge of these expeditions is significant due to the altitude and the high elevation, the terrain is varied and appropriate for both beginning and more experienced climbers. These trips are great introductions to high altitude climbing in a foreign country. Both expeditions begin with ascents of major mountains that are 18,000 to 19,000 feet tall and culminate with an ascent of a 20,000-foot+ peak.

In China we will be leading an expedition to make the second ascent of the 20,050-foot peak Reddomaine (or "Led-do-man-yin" in Tibetan), in the Hengduan Mountain Range. Just east of the Himalaya, this remote and little explored range stretches from northern Myanmar along Tibet's eastern border to the northern part of China's Sichuan Province. These are spectacular mountains and the trip is an excellent introduction to both Chinese and Tibetan cultures. Only intermediate level alpine skills are required for the climbing.

AAI was recently named a Washington State "Energy Leader" by Puget Sound Energy "for its commitment in supporting environmentally friendly renewable energy through the purchase of Green Power." It's easy to participate in these alternative energy plans and have a direct impact on the environment, and AAI is offering a Green Energy Program Discount to those who do.

For the hiker or climber who has experienced the seemingly pristine beauty of Mt. Rainier's alpine meadows and massive glaciers, it would probably be quite surprising to hear that decreased air quality within Mount Rainier National Park is identified as a major concern by both the Environmental Protection Agency and the National Park Service. In fact, in a 1999 EPA report, cloud water samples taken at Paradise (at 5400 feet on Mt. Rainier) were revealed to have some of the highest acidity levels of any samples taken in Washington State. Additionally, according to the General Management Plan for Mountain Rainier National Park, visibility is among the worst of all National Parks and wilderness areas in the Western United States. Read more.

Climbing buddies can be hard to find. Let us make it easy for you by taking advantage of this special offer. If you sign up for any AAI North Cascades or Sierra instructional course or guided climb by July 31, 2006, you can bring a friend for half price! To qualify, you must mention code EN706 when registering.

Offer expires July 31,2006. Offers cannot be combined or used with other discounts and promotions. AAI reserves the right to change or cancel this offer at any time. Please contact our office for full details.

Check out our other special offers, including our year round Ring Leader Discount, Second Summits Program, and our Green Energy Discount!

Guides Choice is an independent, international gear evaluation program started by the American Alpine Institute in 1989. Our professional mountain guides are continually field-testing equipment and clothing in a variety of mountain environments and conditions. Guides Choice awards are given to the top item of gear in each product category based on excellence in design, performance, and durability. Each year new Guides Choice awards are presented to manufacturers at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market trade show in Salt Lake City. View the list of 2005 award recipients.

Mid-summer smorgasbord sale: 35-50% off a variety of items! Summer is in full swing, so check out our mid-summer gear sale. We have a large variety of items at killer prices. Now is a good chance to upgrade and replace some of your old gear that may be due for retirement... 5.10 Ascent Rock Climbing Shoes - 40% 5.10 Anasazi Lace Up Rock Climbing Shoes - 40% Black Diamond Verglas Gloves - 50% Grivel Manu Pack - 50% Grivel Air Tech Light Crampons - 50% Outdoor Research Super Coulor Gloves - 50% Outdoor Research PL Base Gloves - 50% Outdoor Research PL 100 Gloves - 50% Patagonia Jetstream Jacket - 45% Patagonia R.5 Top - 45% Patagonia R1 Flash Pullover - 45% Patagonia Figure 4 Jacket - 50% Patagonia Rainshadow Pants - 45% Patagonia Grade VI Pants - 50% Petzl Elios Helmet - 45% Petzl Vasak Crampons - 45% Petzl Sarken Crampons - 45% Petzl Snowalker Ice Axe - 45% Wild Things Belay Jacket - 35%

For advice on other gear, browse the Guides Choice web site. We feature weekly specials on a handful of items at substantial discounts. The clothing and equipment that is on sale changes every Tuesday, so check back each week. You'll find great items on clearance, and we are regularly adding products, photos, and testing notes. We are expecting shipments of new climbing equipment (including down products from Feathered Friends and new hardware from Black Diamond and Metolius) to arrive soon.

ASK A GUIDE: Your questions answered by Michael Powers

CAUTION: Mountain travel of any kind carries significant risks to the participants, and travel on rock, snow, and ice carries inherent dangers that can lead to injury or death. Every situation is unique and calls for use of different techniques. The choice of techniques must be made in the context and location where they will be applied, and that choice requires a subjective assessment by the person on the scene. Therefore, AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the suggestions offered in this article or by guides and staff. AAI offers tips to assist climbers to expand their skills, but makes no assertion regarding the appropriateness of choosing a particular technique in any given circumstance. You must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying these techniques, whether those risks are from subjective or objective dangers.

Question:

How do I know where the crevasses are on glaciers?

Laura Henderson, Pasadena, CA

Dear Laura:

There's no way to know where crevasses are with certainty unless you are able to visit that glacier in mid to late season when most of the snow melts and reveals the bare ice underneath. Then you will see patterns typical for that glacier, but remember, the precise configuration of slots changes every year because of the movement of the glacier down the mountain. Depending on the altitude of the peak and regional temperatures, late season visibility of crevasses may just apply to glaciers lower on the mountain. On many big peaks (or moderately high peaks with deep snowpacks), the snows never melt fully away high on the mountain - that's key to the glaciers being able to maintain themselves. On a typical late July day in the Alps or Cascades, a glacier at low altitude will look "late season" and a glacier at high altitude will look "early season." Read Mike's full response.

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Question:

My team and I are traveling to Rainier to climb the Disappointment Cleaver route and have a question about roped glacier travel.

Our plan is to have the roped leader and end person tied into the rope (9mm, 60 meter) with a figure eight and the kiwi coil tie-off around their chests. The middle partner tied in via a butterfly knot on a locked biner with a chest harness and prusiks attached to the rope going to the lead climber and end climber. We all have seat prusiks and a texas prusik system attached to our harness and rope.

Should the middle person have a different set up on the rope to be safe and efficient?

Should a three-person rope team travel with the rope fully extended? Is the above our most efficient way to travel safely and quickly on the glaciated terrain of Mt. Rainier?

Thanks for your time and response!

Cheers,

Lisa (somewhere in cyberspace)

Dear Lisa:

I'm glad to hear of your trip to Rainier. Good luck with your climb.

Having the two climbers tied in with figure 8's with the excess coils around the chests (with either a kiwi coil or a mountaineers coil) is a fine idea. Ideally, the length between the climbers is very close but not so close that two people will fall into the same crevasse. The exact distance varies by the climb and current conditions, but normally it's around 30-40 feet. With a team of 3 climbers that will require the use of 60- 80 feet of rope plus 10-15 feet taken up by knots. Therefore, if using a 50-meter rope (165 feet) you will have an excess of 80-85 feet. With your 60-meter rope, you'll have more. Read Mike's full response.

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Read Ask A Guide questions from previous editions of AAI's E-newsletter.

Thank you for your submissions! To submit questions for Ask A Guide, please email us at askaguide@aai.cc (electronic submissions only).

The Ask A Guide was created to answer your most pressing climbing related questions. Michael Powers, AAI Senior Guide and our Assistant Director for Staff Development, answers all questions. Michael oversees field staff hiring, training, and continuing education, and serves as an instructor in mountaineering, ice, rock, and skiing. He is IFMGA certified, serves as an instructor and examiner for the AMGA's National Guide Certification Program, and is a former Technical Director of the AMGA.

THE CLIMBERS PATH PHOTO CONTEST: Send in your best photos and win a $100 gift certificate!

Whether you're an aspiring Ansel Adams or a devoted fan of the point-and-shoot, send us your best mountain photos and you will have a chance at winning a $100 gift certificate, applicable towards either AAI's online gear store or towards the tuition of a mountaineering course. In addition, the winner's photo will appear in the next issue of this newsletter. So send your photos in! It only takes a few seconds to email them to climberspath@aai.cc, and it may be well worth the effort! Electronic submissions only.

View recent entries and the latest winner.