On Toqllaraju. Andrew Wexler

GOALS: Ascents of Nevado Urus Este (17,783 ft.), Ishinca (18,143 ft.), Toqllaraju (19,790 ft.) plus review of alpine climbing and glacier travel skills.

PREREQUISITES: This program is designed for those who have fundamental alpine and glacier travel skills who would like to have a review of climbing and self-rescue technique followed by climbs of aesthetically pleasing, high altitude peaks in the midst of one of the world’s most impressive mountain ranges.

ITINERARY: Peru’s Cordillera Blanca is one of the most rugged and heavily glaciated ranges in the Andes. With hundreds of peaks rising to elevations between 17,000 and 22,000 feet, the area encompasses a remarkable array of climbing challenges, from the moderate to the extreme. We enter Peru through Lima and then drive north and inland to the town of Huaras where we begin our acclimatization by spending two nights at just over 10,000 feet. We spend our first full day in the area making an easy hike in the vicinity of Laguna Churup (14,500 ft.), and the next day, drive to our trailhead at Collon and hike to our 14,000-foot base camp in the Ishinca Valley. We gain additional acclimatization here, get a full day of glacier travel skills review, and then tackle our first climb, Nevado Urus Este. This is a moderate climb on a glacier (up to 30 degrees), and it furthers our acclimatization while providing spectacular views of our coming targets, Nevados Ishinca and Toqllaraju as well as of Ranrapallca and Nevado de Copa.

Getting serious about a summit photo with the immense
North Face of Nevado Ranrapalka (20,217') in the distance and
Ishinca (18,143') on the far right in the foreground. Tim Connelly

We then establish our high camp for Ishinca by a lake at 16,076 feet and take another day there for review and further development of snow and ice climbing, hazard assessment, and route finding skills. Our summit climb of Ishinca is more challenging than Urus, with major crevasses to skirt, steeper slopes, and a dramatic belayed finish on a 40 to 45-degree headwall just below the 18,143-foot summit.

Alpenglow from the high camp on Tocllaraju. Chip Morgan

After a rest day we establish a high camp for Toqllaraju at 17,389 feet. On this climb we enjoy quite varied glacier travel, with gradually steepening faces, major crevasses and 'schrunds to avoid or negotiate, and short, steep steps that we belay intermittently. This is an extremely scenic climb throughout and the views from the 19,790-foot summit are tremendous. We have an additional two days to return to base and Huaras as well as an extra day for weather or further acclimatization as needed. Following this climb many team members will stay for the short expedition on Chopicalqui described below.

On the summit of Chopicalqui. Many consider this to be the best view
in the Cordillera Blanca. Andrew Wexler

GOAL & PREREQUISITE: Ascent of Chopicalqui via the classic Southwest Ridge; participation in Peru Part I is required for thorough acclimatization.

ITINERARY: Chopicalqui is spectacularly situated northeast of and connected to Peru’s highest peak, Huascaran Sur. With Huascaran Norte and Sur, it is the third highest summit encircling the Llanganuco Glacier and forming the immense and dramatic Angosh Cirque. This is a five-day expedition to Chopicalqui's beautiful summit via a complex and high quality route.

After a rest day and two nights at our hotel in Huaras, we set up a base camp in Quebrada Angosh. From there we make a double carry to our high camp at 18,373 ft. which puts us in position to climb the peak’s classic southwest ridge. Our route begins with travel up a major glacier, followed by gradually steepening terrain on a broad ridge with some interesting route finding to avoid crevasses and seracs. As we move higher the ridge narrows and steepens, and while this finish to our ascent is not highly technical, the exposure to either side is striking and one of the characteristics that makes this route so remarkably photogenic.

We have spectacular views of the two peaks of Huascaran, first of Norte’s precipitous northeast face and then of Sur’s seldom climbed northeast face. From the summit we enjoy what many consider to be the best view in the Cordillera Blanca, including the south faces of the Huandoys, Chakraraju, Alpamayo, and Taulliraju. From beginning to end, this is an ideal high altitude expeditionary experience for climbers with fundamental alpine climbing and glacier travel skills.

Flight arrangements should be scheduled so that you arrive in Lima the evening before the first scheduled day of the trip. The morning of the trip's first day, you will take a bus from Lima to Huaraz. Please schedule your departure so that you leave after 10pm the day after the last scheduled day of the trip (the bus ride from Huaraz to Lima takes approximately 8 hours, the bus departs from Huaraz is 11am).

Flights to Lima, Hotel reservations in Lima, bus tickets from Lima to Huaraz, can be arranged ahead of time through our Travel Coordinator. See link below for Lisa's contact information.

Inclusions: Hotel in Huaraz for the dates of the program; tents while trekking or climbing - all on a shared basis (available on a private basis, subject to availability and at added cost); meals while trekking and climbing; admissions to parks; group cooking equipment; group trekking or climbing equipment.

Exclusions: Air transportation; bus fare from Lima to Huaraz; hotel in Lima; personal equipment such as clothing, boots, personal climbing gear, sleeping bag, etc.; meals except while hiking, trekking, or climbing; laundry; inoculations; excess baggage charges; fees for changing air itineraries because of delayed return from the mountains; government and airport taxes; personal health, baggage, and trip insurance; gratuities to guides.