Rising to 14,494 feet, Mt. Whitney is the highest peak in the lower 48 states and the crown jewel of California's Sierra Nevada. It encompasses one of America's most beautiful alpine settings and provides a variety of aesthetic routes on superb granite. Most people climb the mountain by way of the Whitney Trail walk-up. However, the mountain has three other alpine climbs on the east side (ranging from easy to intermediate technical difficulty), and each offers excellent climbing and the opportunity to enjoy a great wilderness experience.

The East side of Mount Whitney at sunrise. The Mountaineer's Route is the gully on the right. The East Face and East Buttress are on the granite face at center. Tauru Chaw

For those who enjoy scrambling, the Mountaineers Route is the route of choice. It can be done in a variety of conditions and in all seasons. While it is rated Class 3, which is considered to be non-technical, the climb offers the challenge of both altitude and endurance. We use the same high camp as we do for the East Face routes, first backpacking to picturesque Iceberg Lake which is surrounded by peaks over 14,000 feet. Initially our route takes us over moderate snow & ice in the early season and over 3rd class rock in mid and later season. Following a long classic couloir ascent, we make a very photogenic traverse to the north. This upper part of the routes gives moderate exposure and wonderful views especially of the dramatic faces of nearby Mt. Russell. The final climb to the summit is fittingly dramatic for highest peak in the lower 48 states.

Late season on the Mountaineer's Route, with a foreshortened view of the East Buttress
in the center. Early to mid-season climbs involve snow and ice, while late season climbs involve a
rock scramble. Coley Gentzel

This is a moderate climb on a very aesthetic line up Whitney's steep East Face. For those with good basic skills, it is a perfect introduction to technical alpine rock climbing. Our approach to high camp at Iceberg Lake takes us into the beautiful high cirque of the Whitney massif. The route itself features excellent rock on solid moves to 5.6 and significant exposure. We begin with enjoyable and quite varied face and crack climbing on the "Washboard;" higher up we complete the aptly named "Fresh-Air Traverse;" and later end with the 4th and 5th class "Grand Staircase" to the dramatic summit. Although awe inspiring and seemingly forbidding from its base, intermediate rock climbers will find this route to be a suitable challenge and a truly rewarding climb both technically and aesthetically.

High on the East Buttress of Whitney. Seth Hobby

The East Buttress is the classic intermediate route on the east side of Mount Whitney and is a more direct line of ascent compared to the East Face. On this route, climbers will encounter a variety of interesting features including towers, pillars, and gendarmes. Climbing is relatively moderate throughout with the hardest pitches being encountered low on the route including a few short sections of 5.7 and 5.8.

For all of these climbs, we meet in either Bishop or at the Lone Pine Ranger Station at 8am on the first day for a gear check and orientation, then drive to a nearby rock climbing area (8000 ft) where we use this important time to acclimatize and to either learn or review rock climbing skills. The next day we drive to the Whitney Portal trailhead (8200 ft) to start the approach into beautiful Iceberg Lake and our base camp (12,300 ft). Day three is summit day, and on the fourth day we hike out.

Most climbers will fly into Reno, NV where there are numerous inexpensive flights from all over the U.S. If arriving in the summer months May through October, renting a 2 wheel drive vehicle is fine. If coming in the winter, it's better to have 4 wheel drive, or at least front wheel drive with chains and good clearance. The drive from Reno to Tom's Place is about 3 hours, or about 200 miles south.

Climbing in the Alabama Hills with Mount Whitney in the background. Josh Wonner

Inclusions:

• guide fees
• all group technical climbing equipment
• permit and access fees

Exclusions:

• personal equipment such as clothing, boots, personal climbing gear (e.g., harness, helmet), sleeping bag, tent, etc. Personal climbing and camping gear is available for rent at a nominal charge.
• transportation to the program's meeting location and during the program. We ask that you provide transportation for your guide from the point of rendezvous, and – if there are other climbers in your program – we encourage you to car pool.
• lodging costs (if any)
• meals
• fees for changing air itineraries because of canceled or delayed programs
• gratuities to guides
• personal health, baggage, and trip cancellation insurance

Mt. Whitney Equipment List