Slideshow

Itinerary

Equipment List

Dispatches

Extras

A climber enjoys the view from the sidewalk in the sky
on the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos.Kurt Hicks

"The 4-part course was just what we were looking for: a systematic way to learn how to lead on rock and glaciers, starting from minimal experience on those media. By going through the course, we now have a whole new dimension to explore on our backcountry trips." -Myron and Adele (Laramie, WY)

Men's Journal calls this program "the country's most respected and thorough rock and mountaineering course." It has three 12-day segments, and you can choose to take one, two, three, or all four. Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering, general team leadership, and leading rope teams on glaciers. Part 2 - More Advanced Skills & Technical Leading develops techniques for leading multi-pitch rock routes while further advancing technical and evaluative skills on snow, ice, and rock. Part 3 allows you to continue to develop your technical leadership skills while providing an opportunity to focus those skills on one of three areas. Part 4 is an expedition in which all of the skills developed are employed in a remote and complex big mountain setting.

The third portion of the Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Program provides the opportunity to practice and apply the skills that you learned in Parts 1 and 2 while engaging in a series of new advanced alpine techniques.

The earlier courses laid a solid foundation for your skills as a mountaineer, an ice climber, and a rock climber. This advanced level course provides an opportunity for you to apply those techniques and to expand on them while specializing in s specific type of alpine travel.

The Part 3 course offers three different specializations. The first is an aid climbing/big wall course, combined with a mountaineering expedition to the remote and spectacular Picket Range in the North Cascades. The second option is an advanced alpine rock climbing trip that will combine a technical climbing seminar with an expedition to the remarkable granite rock spires that rise from the complex, heavily glaciated terrain of Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia. The third option is a ski mountaineering seminar, which combines the climbing skills of previous courses with peak ascents and tours deep in the Cascades. Each of these options has a different emphasis.

In order to participate in this high-end training and expedition, you must first complete Parts 1 and 2. If you took Part 2 more than a year and a half prior, you will need to take a four-day refresher course. If you have engaged in a significant amount of climbing in the interim this may be waived.

All three of the options offer the unique opportunity for participants to co-lead a mini-expedition and to obtain further instruction. The expedition serves as a finale to the leadership program because it brings together all the logistical skills, climbing techniques, and mountain judgment learned and practiced in Parts 2 and 3 in a bigger, more complex and more challenging environment.

Beautiful Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos. Andy Bourne

The third part of our Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series includes three options. Each of these options run on different dates. And though some may wish to participate in only one of these options, others will want to continue to expand their climbing and expeditionary skills by participating in all three.

• Picket Range (3a) - Advanced Alpine Mountaineering and Rock Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall Techniques & Remote Cascade Expedition
• Bugaboos (3b) - Advanced Alpine Rock Climbing, Squamish Multi-Pitch Rock Efficiency Clinic and Bugaboos Expedition
• Ski Mountaineering (3c) - Ski mountaineering and Remote Alpine Ski Tour

It is our primary goal that upon completion of this program you will be able to function successfully as an alpine climbing leader at an advanced level. Climbers who successfully complete all 4 parts of this program receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership. One does not need to complete Parts 3a, 3b, and 3c to attain this certification. However, you will receive an endorsement based on the part that you choose to complete. Those who elect to complete more than one section will be awarded additional endorsements on their certification.

Due to your schedule or personal goals, you may not be able to participate in AMTL Part 4. If you elect to take more than one version of the AMTL 3, the second course at the AMTL 3 Level will be counted as an AMTL 4 and you will be awarded your certificate of Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

2012 Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Part 3 dates:

• May 12-23: Ski Mountaineering and Remote Alpine Ski Tour (3c)
• June 3-14: Ski Mountaineering and Remote Alpine Ski Tour (3c)
• July 1-12: Picket Range Expedition (3a)
• July 15 - 26: Bugaboo Range Expedition (3d)
• July 29-9: Bugaboo Range Expedition (3b)
• August 12-23: Picket Range Expedition (3b)
• August 26-September 6: Picket Range Expedition (3a)

Structure and Goals:

In this third 12-day segment of the program you will develop more sophisticated technical skills on rock, snow and ice while making ascents of technical rock routes using both free and aid techniques as well as continuing to explore the rugged glaciers and high peaks of North Cascades National Park. This is one of the rare courses in the world that specifically teaches techniques for leading on rock, snow, and ice. You will increase your proficiency in free climbing and mountaineering, you will learn the techniques required to climb big wall aid routes and you will become capable of setting up sophisticated rescue systems.

Your instructors will help you refine your route selection skills, route finding, and natural hazard evaluation that were introduced in Parts 1 and 2. Additionally, we emphasize the development of both the judgment and the specific climbing and protective systems skills required for leading more advanced climbs. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader on both rock and glacier routes.

NOTE - Those who complete a Part 3b, or 3c, may also get an Aid Climbing and Big Wall endorsement on their certification if they take the 4-day Aid Climbing and Big Wall Technique seminar. They do not have to complete all of 3a to obtain this endorsement.

The Northern Picket Range, from the summit of Mt. Challenger. Myron Allen

Structure and Goals:

In this third 12-day segment of the program, you will develop more sophisticated technical skills on rock, snow and ice while making ascents of technical rock routes in both the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park as well as in the Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia. This is one of the rare courses in the world that specifically teaches techniques for leading on rock, snow, and ice. You will increase your proficiency as a free climber as well as engage in complex glacier travel.

Though there are many mountaineering elements, this particular program has a heavier focus on rock climbing than the other options. In Part 3b, climbers will learn specifically how to move fast on large and complex features. The first part of the program will provide you the opportunity to refine your movement skills on the granite above the mountain town of Squamish. And the second part will challenge those same skills on high and remote alpine rock peaks in the Bugaboos.

Route selection, route finding and hazard evaluation continue to play a major role in your education as you proceed to refine protective systems, rock rescue techniques and movement skills. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader on both rock and glacier routes.

Structure and Goals:

In this third 12-day segment of the program you will develop more sophisticated skills on glaciers and on steep snow. Additionally, participants will develop the skills to move effectively on both glaciated and non-glaciated terrain on backcountry skis. The course will culminate in a multi-day backcountry ski tour or high traverse.

All participants will learn the skills specific to crevasse rescue with skis, they will learn about the care and maintenance of backcountry skis, they will learn the rudiments of snow science and avalanche evaluation and they will develop the skills to plan both single and multi-day peak descents.

This particular course has additional prerequisites beyond Parts 1 and 2. Skiers who participate in this course should be comfortable on moderate to steep terrain when skiing inside of a ski resort. At minimum, skiers should be comfortable on tricky blue runs or easy black runs. This course was designed for competent in-bounds skiers who are ready to move into the backcountry.

Your instructors will work with you on all of the specific skills needed for route selection, route finding, and hazard evaluation required for ski mountaineers. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader and a qualified skier in technical backcountry travel.

A skier is rewarded for their climb with an exciting descent. Ben Traxler