Slideshow

Virtual Tour

Itinerary

Equipment List

Dispatches

Second Summits

Extras

Climbers on their way to the summit of Sahale Peak, with Sharkfin Tower and Boston Peak in the background. Gerry Chike

"The 4-part course was just what we were looking for: a systematic way to learn how to lead on rock and glaciers, starting from minimal experience on those media. By going through the course, we now have a whole new dimension to explore on our backcountry trips." -Myron and Adele (Laramie, WY)

Men's Journal calls this program "the country's most respected and thorough rock and mountaineering course." It has three 12-day segments, and you can choose to take one, two, three, or all four. Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering, general team leadership, and leading rope teams on glaciers. Part 2 - More Advanced Skills & Technical Leading develops techniques for leading multi-pitch rock routes while further advancing technical and evaluative skills on snow, ice, and rock. Part 3 allows you to continue to develop your technical leadership skills while providing an opportunity to focus those skills on one of three areas. Part 4 is an expedition in which all of the skills developed are employed in a remote and complex big mountain setting.

After completing Part 1, you may chose to continue with the next program segments in order to rapidly develop well-rounded technical leadership skills. But you also have the choice of joining a climbing trip or expedition in the US or abroad or joining one of our shorter follow-up programs such as our 5-day Intermediate Rock, 6-day Alpine Ice, 6-day Expedition Training, 5-day Waterfall Ice, 6-day Alpine Mountaineering Level II, etc. We can advise you on your best options in light of your interests and future climbing goals.

This program has been described by National Accreditation reviewers as "the most practical and complete course devoted to technical mountain leadership offered in America."

• Take one or all four parts of this course: 12, 24, 36, or 48 days
• Take the course in one year or over the course of two, three or four years.
• Complete all four parts and receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

American Alpine Institute from John Grace on Vimeo.

In this first 12-day program, we help you develop a very complete set of alpine climbing skills for rock, snow, and ice, from the basics on up, and as we progress through each set of skills, we will provide you with a lot of enjoyable practice climbing so you can master each technique. You will learn route finding and hazard assessment skills as well as self-rescue. Through the course you will make a series of classic alpine ascents on rock routes and on major glaciers, and you and your fellow team members will lead the final climb as you apply all the climbing and leadership skills learned during the program.

We place as much emphasis on good mountain judgment as we do on the development of technical skills, and throughout this course we'll be helping you observe and analyze climbing routes, terrain features, and hazards so that by the end of the program you will have developed the ability to lead a small team safely through a rugged and complex environment and rope teams on basic and intermediate alpine routes. The climbs we make typically include four or five of the following: Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Cutthroat Peak, South Early Winter Spire, Liberty Bell, and Silver Star. Join this course for excellent skills development, diverse and beautiful alpine climbing experience, and preparation for leading your own alpine climbing teams.

Practicing crevasse rescue. Photo by Dylan Taylor

Alpine Travel & Climbing Skills

• selection & use of personal equipment as well as ropes, knots, & harnesses
• design concepts, selection, & use of technical equipment for rock, snow, & ice climbing
• the uses of map, compass, altimeter, and GPS
• principles of glacier travel & route finding
• belaying techniques on rock, snow, & ice
• the concept and application of the self-belay
• self-arrest from all positions
• free climbing technique on rock, snow, & ice
• French, German, and American cramponing techniques
• interrelationship, choice between, & application of all principal ice axe positions
• rappelling & prusiking
• glissading for speed & ease of descent

Objective Hazards Evaluation & Self-Rescue Skills

• evaluation & prediction of mountain weather patterns
• introduction to the assessment of natural hazards
• individual & team crevasse rescue techniques

Leadership Skills

• technical & personal functions of individuals in the rope team; role and responsibility
• problem solving: gathering appropriate data & assessment techniques
• evolving leadership roles: individual leadership vs. collective decision making

Environmental Protection Skills

• an introduction to alpine ecology
• Leave No Trace travel, camping, & climbing skills

Mt. Baker's 10,780-foot summit. We typically make a climb of Mt. Baker in the first five
days of this course. Tom Anastasio

Check out our other outdoor leadership programs.

"This course is one of the best things I've ever done. The course is amazing. It's basically like living, instead of reading Freedom of the Hills. It is a tremendous base to build a climbing career on, not to mention you'll get to climb some beautiful peaks. It changed my life. I'm telling my friends they have to do it!" Denise Lambright, St. Louis

"My guide met and exceeded every expectation I had. The combination of his knowledge, skills, teaching ability, and personality were more than I would have dared to hope for." Rob Lindner, Ashford, WA

"I enjoyed the curriculum because I thought it started out where I was at, but it didn't move too slowly." Chris Petersen, Dallas, TX

A climber enjoys great conditions on Kangaroo Temple. Photo by Myron Allen.