For many the thought of being out on the sharp end of the rope sends shivers up the spine. What if I fall? What if my gear doesn't hold? What if something happens? Our new Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership course will answer these questions and more. The objective of this program is to introduce climbers to the techniques required for leading single and multi-pitch traditional rock routes while advancing technical and movement skills.

A climber starts up Tonto (5.5) in Red Rocks, NV. The Learn to Lead course runs in Red Rocks,
Joshua Tree, Squamish and Leavenworth. Jason Martin

The Introduction to Rock Leadership course addresses each of the components required to safely and successfully lead a traditional rock climb. Course highlights include:

• Care and selection of traditional climbing gear
• Introduction to modern traditional technique
• Anchor building techniques and management
• Leader safety in both a single and a multi-pitch environment
• Technical free climbing movement for a leader

Introduction to Rock Leadership is offered throughout the winter season in Red Rock Canyon, NV and in Joshua Tree National Park, CA. During the summer season this course is offered in Leavenworth, WA and in Squamish, BC.

Course participants are encouraged to bring their own traditional gear. However, if they do not have any, they will be able to use AAI equipment. Helmets, harnesses, and rock shoes are required equipment and are available for rental if needed.

Day One:

• Meet your guide at the program area in the morning (8:00am or 11:00am depending on location and date)
• Selection, use and care of traditional gear
• Discuss traditional racking techniques
• Practical applications of both passive and active protection
• Introduction to traditional anchors for leaders
• Practical applications of different lead belays
• Introduction to the autoblocking device
• Introduction to simple rescue techniques

Day Two:

• Introduction to multi-directional anchors
• Introduction to anchor and rope management
• Practical work in a mock multi-pitch setting
• Practical work in a mock single pitch setting

Day Three:

• Techniques for cleaning anchors and rappelling
• Techniques for rappelling a multi-pitch line
• Discussion of lead climbing strategies, both physical and mental
• Guided example of a short multi-pitch line
• Practical leadership work in a single pitch setting

Day Four:

• Discussion of fall factors and how they apply to the leader
• Practical leadership work in a multi-pitch setting
• Practical leadership work in a single-pitch setting

Two climbers learn to lead a trad route in Leavenworth, WA. The belayer sits on top of Jello Tower
as the leader ascends Midway, a 5.6 3 pitch climb. Mike Powers

Participants should be able to follow 5.8 (indoors or outdoors) and have some experience in outdoor top-roped climbing.

Red Rock, NV

• October 15 - 18, 2010
• November 11 - 14, 2010
• December 27 - 30, 2010
• February 11 - 14, 2011
• March 12 - 15, 2011
• March 22 - 25, 2011
• April 8 - 11, 2011
• April 22 - 25, 2011

Joshua Tree, CA

• October 15 - 18, 2010
• November 11 - 14, 2010
• December 27 - 30, 2010
• February 11 - 14, 2011
• March 12 - 15, 2011
• March 22 - 25, 2011
• April 8 - 11, 2011
• April 22 - 25, 2011

• August 1 - 4, 2010
• August 15 - 18, 2010
• August 29 - September 1, 2010

Squamish, BC

• September 3 - 6, 2010