Slideshow

Itinerary

Equipment List

Dispatches

Extras

AAI groups make ascents of Pequeno Alpamayo via the face on the left. In 1990 a team also established a new route up the
steep face in the center directly to the summit. Miles Newby

Bolivia Part 2 is an 10-day climbing program that includes skills instruction and review that is presented at both introductory and more advanced levels. Part 2A includes a day learning fundamental alpine mountaineering skills and is designed for those with little or no glacier climbing experience. Part 2B includes a day to review basic and intermediate techniques and helps experienced climbers further advance their route finding, hazard evaluation, and technical climbing skills. (Note: Both 2A and 2B occur at the same time from the same basecamp, we only split up during the day to accommodate different skill levels and climbing goals)

Most climbers participating in Part 2 stay an additional five days for our Bolivia Part 3 Illimani Expedition, a climb of the highest peak in the Cordillera Real. Though it stands at 21,201-foot, climbers enjoy an extremely high rate of success because of their thorough acclimatization in the earlier parts of the program.

The Condoriri Lake District is one of the Andes' most beautiful sub-ranges. Miles Newby

The Cordillera Real of Bolivia is one of the world's major ranges and offers some of the finest and most varied alpine climbing, but it is probably the least known and least climbed range among comparable mountain groups. This is due to the country's remoteness and its lack of any traditional tourism. As a result, for those who are used to climbing and backpacking in wilderness areas, for whom the experience of a minimally impacted and uncrowded area is important, and who find great appeal in exploring a remote and exotic land, the Cordillera Real offers an unparalleled opportunity.

The first day of Part 2 is spent traveling by boat on Lake Titicaca and driving across the altiplano to a trailhead in the central part of the Cordillera Real. Those participating only in Part 1 can also join us for this day's activities. Covering a substantial part of Bolivia's altiplano, Lake Titicaca is the world's highest navigable waterway, and from its waters we enjoy memorable views of the scores of seventeen to twenty-thousand-foot peaks that make up the Cordillera Real. This range has great vertical relief, and the steep faces of ice that characterize its peaks rise up in dramatic contrast to the broad and undulating altiplano. We visit a small island where 15th century Inca terraces can be observed, and we see villagers who carry out farming, spinning, weaving, and reed boat construction much as their ancestors did during the rule of the Incas.

Climbers on Huayna Potosi. Andrew Wexler

GOALS: To help climbing enthusiasts with little climbing experience become capable of gaining safe access to wilderness alpine areas; to help them become proficient in basic and intermediate alpine mountaineering skills; to convey to them an appreciation of the serious requirements placed upon the mountaineer and the entire team when climbing at altitude; and to help them understand and protect the fragile alpine environment. We work to instill in participants both concepts and skills that will allow them to climb in high altitude alpine areas safely and confidently. Upon completion of this program, each participant should be qualified as a technically competent rope team member capable of safely ascending high altitude alpine routes of intermediate difficulty.

PREREQUISITES: Applicants to the program must have previous backpacking and cold weather experience; any previous mountaineering experience is helpful. Participants must acclimatize for seven days before beginning this program seg-ment, ideally spending most of that time between 10,000 and 12,000 feet, either by joining Part 1 of this program or by conducting their own comparable trip.

ITINERARY: Having reached the trailhead as described above, we meet our arriero and his llamas, and the next morning, with the animals carrying the bulk of our gear, we make an easy-paced ascent to our base camp at 15,000 feet. The trek takes us through some beautiful valley landscapes, and our camp provides excellent views of the many surrounding mountains and puts us in position to make a series of single-day ascents. During the first days of the program we tailor our schedule of instruction and practice climbing to suit the needs of the participants acclimatizing at different rates. We give instruction in climbing technique on a glacial practice area near our camp while team members gradually acclimatize more fully to the 15,000 to 16,000-foot altitudes, and then cover additional skills in the process of making summit climbs. We make a beautiful short trek to the Condoriri Lake District and there make two ascents on 17,000 and 18,000-foot peaks. This area includes two of the most beautiful mountains on the continent, Cerro Condoriri and Pequeno Alpamayo.

Condoriri base camp. Andrew Wexler

Our approach is once again made easy by the help of llamas, and we set up camp near a lake below the magnificently sculptured white tower of Condoriri. We practice additional climbing and rescue techniques and then make our first major climb, most likely of the beautiful Pyramide Blanca. After a day of rest or more practice climbing, we tackle our primary goal in this group, Pequeño Alpamayo, a hidden peak with a very impressive pyramidal summit. We climb a broad glacier to a col, traverse along a ridge to the base of the summit pyramid, and then ascend directly to the top. The entire route is photogenic, offers excellent climbing, and makes use of all the skills taught earlier in the program.

We then move south past a series of colorful altiplano lakes to the Pass of Zongo, right at the very foot of Huayna Potosi (variously calculated from 19,996 to 20,011 feet), from which we take a full day to establish a high camp at 18,000 feet. Setting off from that camp the following morning with sunrise over the Amazon Basin to our east, we climb a beautiful route which includes serious glacier travel and intermittent sections of moderately steep ground — challenging climbing but well within the skill level developed by the climbing team during the preceding days of the program. With Huayna Potosi's summit a well-defined point at the end of a beautifully sculptured ridge, the last few steps to the top provide an exhilarating finish to a great climb. Though this summit is at very high altitude, the acclimatization gained in Part 1 of the program and most importantly on the climbs preceding this major ascent, gives each team member a very good chance for success.

CURRICULUM

• selection & use of personal equipment
• anchors for fixed & running belays
• selection & use of ropes, knots, & harnesses
• an introduction to high altitude physiology
• design & selection of technical equipment
• response to high altitude illness
• principles of glacier travel
• nutrition during extended trips at altitude
• belaying techniques on snow & ice
• introduction to natural hazards evaluation
• French & German cramponing techniques
• crevasse rescue procedures
• principal ice axe positions
• rappelling
• concept & application of the self-belay
• route finding & evaluation

View from a Bolivia II camp in the Condoriri Lake District. Cerro Condoriri is in the distance and its West Wing is to its left
in the center of the photo. Miles Newby

GOALS: We review intermediate skills depending on individual need, and additionally cover a hybrid climbing technique which combines aspects of American, German, and French approaches to snow and ice with the goals of perfecting technique and developing consistency within the climbing team. The amount of time spent practice climbing varies according to the needs and interests of the group members, but we at least briefly cover use of second ice tools; adjustment in technique in response to different Andean snow and ice types; protective systems; establishment and operation of belays on steep ground; belay change-over sequences; free climbing technique on steep ice; and the integration of specific skills with the general goals of efficient and safe climbing.

PREREQUISITES: This program is designed for those with significant, previous alpine mountaineering experience climbing at or above an intermediate skill level. Those with less experience should join 2A.

ITINERARY: This program follows the same basic itinerary as described above for Part 2A, with ascents made from the same base camps on different peaks or different routes on the same peaks. Depending on conditions and skill level, there may be opportunity to attempt new routes during the first half of the program. During this program the team does a great deal of climbing, normally ascending two or three 17,000 to 18,000-foot summits in the Condoriri Lake District and either the North Ridge or steep East Face of Huayna Potosi. With strong teams, this may include an ascent of Cerro Condoriri — a sustained and exposed climb on one of the most beautiful summits in the Andes.

Those interested in continuing can join us for Bolivia Part 3-Illimani Expedition.

Cerro Condoriri, one of the most beautiful climbs in the Andes. Our route skirts the right buttress, climbs a face on the opposite
side to the prominent notch below the summit, and then ascends a knife ridge directly to the summit. The West Wing rises steeply
on the left. Mark Houston.

Flight arrangements should be scheduled so that you arrive in La Paz the day before the first scheduled day of the trip. Please schedule your departure so that you leave the day after the last scheduled day of the trip. Please contact our Travel Coordinator if you need assistance with travel arrangements.

"Both guides met my expectations and needs extremely well. They were thorough with all necessary instruction to give me complete confidence on the climbs." Bob Jackson, Chicago, IL

"They were knowledgeable about climbing techniques, areas visited, the culture, and the specific climbs. They skillfully negotiated the details and logistics, with time left over to create a fun, friendly, and relaxed environment. I would definitely climb with my guides on future trips." Natasha Civalli, Longmont, CO