Climber working his way up Cerro Torre in Patagonia, Argentina. Photo by Andrew Wexler.

There is a point in every climber's life when he or she looks at a massive vertical rock face and says, "I want to climb that." Often times the problem is that the rock is too steep and the holds are too small to allow a free ascent. Aid climbing is a specific technique that provides climbers with the ability to get up routes that are too hard to free climb.

Most people become aware of aid climbing through the lens of big wall climbing. Big walls are routes that usually take more than a day to ascend. They often require climbers to bivy on a portable platform, and many of these lines require them to use direct aid in order to climb through difficult parts of the wall.

Moving on from long multi-pitch routes to big walls is a natural progression for rock climbers. But well-rounded alpinists need these aid climbing skills to add to their abilities in ice climbing, mountaineering, and rock climbing. There are many mountains throughout the world that have routes that primarily require moderate free climbing skills but which also have short difficult sections. A basic understanding of aid opens up thousands of new routes to the well-rounded alpinist.

The American Alpine Institute's four-day aid climbing and big wall technique seminar is designed for competent leaders who want to expand the number of routes that they can climb and raise their climbing ability by exploring new techniques and concepts. This course will broaden your free climbing skills as you learn aid because we will introduce you to new free climbing skills as well as aid climbing methodologies. One of the highlights of the course is a night spent on a portable ledge on the side of a cliff.

Because aid climbing is so technical in nature, the Aid Climbing and Big Wall Techniques course is only offered at a two-to-one climber-to-guide ratio. The course must have a minimum of two students registered to run at the published price.

Climber using aid techniques on big wall route. Photo by Brendan Cusick.

Advanced Aid and Free Climbing Skills:

• selection & use of personal equipment for an aid climb including specific ropes, harnesses, & equipment
• design concepts, selection & use of technical equipment for mixed aid & free climbing
• advanced rigging for multi-pitch climbing
• use of big wall gear & equipment including etriers, daisy chains, mechanical ascenders, haul bags, portaledges, leeper cams, hooks & an assortment of other gear
• use of fixed lines
• strategy for multi-pitch aid or mixed climbs
• strategies for multi-pitch descents
• techniques for hauling, big wall bivies, & for pendulums
• clean aid climbing techniques
• complex hauling systems
• management of hanging belays
• strategies for multi-day routes

Objective Hazards Evaluation & Self-Rescue Skills

• evaluation & prediction of mountain weather patterns
• introduction to the assessment of natural hazards
• individual & team crevasse rescue techniques

Leadership Skills

• technical & personal functions of individuals on an ascent: roles & responsibility
• problem solving: gathering appropriate data & assessment techniques
• evolving leadershiop roles: individual leadership vs. collective decision making

Environmental Protection Skills

• an introduction to vertical ecology
• Leave No Trace travel, camping, & climbing skills

A climber moves his way up City Park, a classic aid line in Index, WA. Andy Bourne Collection.

Washington: Index.

• July 1 - 4, 2012
• August 26 - 29, 2012

Nevada: Red Rock Canyon

• March 8 - 11, 2012
• March 24 - 27, 2012
• April 27 - 30, 2012