Climbers enjoy a late breakfast before a climb of Castleton Tower looming above them. Andy Bourne

Introduction to the Area

Nestled between Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park and Deadhorse Point State Park, high on the Colorado Plateau, the tiny hamlet of Moab is considered by many to be the adventure capitol of Utah. This little resort town is surrounded by some of the most amazing red rock scenery in the world. And people come from all over the planet to sample the area's river rafting, mountain biking, canyoneering, and rock climbing.

Rock climbing in the Moab area is a completely unique experience. Most of the routes require some form of crack climbing technique. The skills employed to ascend a route run the gamut, from simple hand jams to strenuous off-width maneuvers. Those who come from a face-climbing or a gym climbing background will be introduced to a whole new world of climbing. And those who are already familiar with crack climbing techniques will be able to significantly advance their skills. The need to use such a wide array of crack climbing techniques in such a focused setting will ultimately lend itself to mastery.

Courses and guided climbing offered every day, September through May.

The town of Moab is surrounded by rock. Climbs of all ability levels are available, just minutes from downtown Moab. Indeed, one of the great advantages to climbing in Moab is the ease of access. Many of the practice crags just outside of town are so close to the road that you can literally open your car door and put on your harness. These quick approaches allow you to maximize your time developing your technical and movement skills.

Beginner level climbers will generally work at one of these roadside crags, developing a wide-array of base-level climbing skills, including belay techniques, knot practice, equipment selection, anchoring and climbing commands. Additionally, beginners will work on climbing movement skills which will include hand, foot and finger jamming techniques, hand and foot placement for economy of movement, body positioning and balance, as well as proper positioning to save energy and strength.

Intermediate and advanced level climbers may continue to work on climbing movement skills to refine their crack climbing techniques. However, they may also focus on multi-pitch technique, lead technique, direct aid technique, or rock rescue.

A climber on the iconic corkscrew climb, "Ancient Art." Josh Wonner

There are few things in this world that can give a climber goose-bumps like the idea of standing on top of a tiny summit, hundreds of feet off the ground. Moab and the surrounding areas offer some of the best desert tower climbing in the world. Southeast Utah is chocked full of towers with routes available for all ability levels, though the bulk of the routes do tend to be for intermediate and advanced level climbers.

Here is a sample of some of the most popular Moab area towers:

• South Six Shooter A perfect beginner tower route, the south face (II, 5.7) of the South Six Shooter offers three outstanding pitches of desert rock climbing. For the more hardy, multiple 5.9 and 5.10 routes also reach from the base of the tower to the summit.


• Castleton Tower A unique tower that stands alone four-hundred feet above the desert floor is perhaps the most famous of the desert towers. The Kor-Ingalls Route (III, 5.9) on the south face has the distinction of being one of the prestigious Fifty Classic Climbs in North America. This classic line offers up a bit of everything, from off-width climbing to hand cracks to a squeeze chimney. It is a route not to be missed! When the desert sun is too warm, an excellent alternative to the Kor-Ingalls is the equally enjoyable North Chimney (III, 5.9). By any means, Castleton Tower is one of the most enjoyable climbs in the area.


• The Priest Found just north of Castleton Tower, this feature looks like a Priest blessing the approaching climber. The most popular line on this 330-foot tall tower is the Honeymoon Chimney (III, 5.9 A0), which as you might have suspected, includes a lot of engaging chimney climbing.


• Ancient Art One of the most amazing summits in the entire region, the bulbous top of Ancient Art looks like something Salvador Dali might paint if he were asked to render a desert tower. Five pitches of varied climbing, including a crawl across a foot-wide ridge top, and a wild mantle over a diving board-shaped feature lead to this absolutely stunning summit (III, 5.8, A0).


• The Priest Found just north of Castleton Tower, this feature looks like a Priest blessing the approaching climber. The most popular line on this 330-foot tall tower is the Honeymoon Chimney (III, 5.9 A0), which as you might have suspected, includes a lot of engaging chimney climbing.


• The Lighthouse Tower Another peak with a tiny summit that will only hold one person at a time, this 315-foot tall tower has two intermediate-level routes, the Posiden Adventure (III, 5.9+) and Lonely Vigil (II, 5.10).

The American Alpine Institute has access to dozens of towers throughout the region. Many of the towers require aid climbing to successfully climb. These provide a perfect venue to develop your aid and big wall climbing skills.

Indian Creek is often referred to as the crack climbing capitol of the world. This deep rift just east of Canyonlands National Park is home to thousands upon thousands of absolutely beautiful parallel-sided cracks. These laser-straight splitters climb up stunning cliff-faces of wingate sandstone above a scenic open valley. This combination of great rock, beautiful scenery and perfect crack climbing has made the area a world-class rock climbing destination and a must visit area for intermediate and advanced level climbers.

The following programs are offered in a variety of locations, though they are not offered in every location every year. All programs may be completed on a private basis.

• Basic Rock Camp
• Learn to Lead: Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership
• Aid and Big Wall Climbing Techniques

Half-Day Private Courses

• $300 - Private
• $190 - (per person) 2 people
• $140 - (per person) 3 or more people

Available for Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced Level courses. Half-day courses may be run in the morning or the afternoon.

Full Day Private Courses

• $325 - Private
• $235 - (per person) 2 people
• $190 - (per person) 3 or more people

Available for Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced Level courses. For cragging courses, the meeting time will be at 8:00am with a return by 5:00pm. Meeting times for significant ascents may be earlier depending on the commitment level required of the route.

Multi-Day Private Courses

• $300 - Private
• $210 - (per person per day) 2 people
• $170 - (per person per day) 3 or more people

A climber enjoys some moderate terrain
on wingate sandstone. Andy Bourne

Though most people elect to drive to Moab from Grand Junction, Colorado, or Salt Lake City, Utah, Great Lakes Airlines connects directly to the Moab Airport from both Page, AZ as well as from Las Vegas, NV.